Backpacker Buzz

HI-C-PM Region Member Services Assistant Lydia went to Iceland right before that whole volcano business erupted in the news. She explains to us why there's a whole lot more to the country than a steamin' mountain.

I love Iceland. I’ve been to other places I loved- Paris and New York jump to mind- but when I see anything about Iceland, I get all warm and glowy. And there sure has been a lot about Iceland for me to see recently. They had some sort of natural disaster there, I think? A volcano, was it? Ah yes, that’s right. Every photo of Icelandic landscapes I’ve seen in the news the last couple of months just makes me sigh and remember how awesome it is there.

My husband and I flew to Reykjavik at just the right time, returning home to Vancouver just 3 days before Eyjafjallajokul first erupted on March 20. Before we left, when we told people where we were going, we were met with one of two replies- “Why Iceland?” (a politer version of “Why do you want to go to Iceland?”), and my preferred one, “Oh, I really want to go there!”

I’d like you to know why Iceland, and why in the winter. First of all, it’s not that icy- one of the favourite quotes of tourism sites from there is that winters are often warmer in Iceland than in New York City. When we were there in March, temperatures ranged from lows of 1, up to 8 or 9 degrees Celsius, and we just met with rain, not snow. Find a warm waterproof coat and it’s no problem.

While it’s well known that now is the best time to visit Iceland because it’s cheaper than ever, don’t confuse that with it being dirt cheap. We found that meals were still rather expensive, and shopping was out of the question, except for the Icelandic wool sweaters that are almost mandatory for every resident and tourist to buy. (The best prices are found at the Handknitting Association of Iceland.) Visiting in the off-season provides you a somewhat lower cost on accommodation, car rental, and attractions, although it does mean that some of the attractions in the smaller towns are closed and you won’t see any puffins- my biggest regret.

We found the money really confusing to convert in our heads, so my husband downloaded a free currency app from xe.com and put it on his iPhone and my iPod Touch. We could just whip out our devices in a store and figure out what things cost in Canadian dollars; the app doesn’t even require wi-fi to use.

We rented a car as part of a package through Hostelling International-Iceland, which included accommodation. While I enjoyed having a car, if driving is out of the question, it’s not an absolute necessity. Most of Reykjavik is quite walkable, and the few attractions out of walking distance from the city centre can be reached by public transit. The day trips we took (to Vik and the Golden Circle) are also offered as day trips through the hostel, as is transportation to the Blue Lagoon and the airport. If driving is an option and you’re not sure about renting a car, I would compare the cost of car rental to the cost of the tours and airport shuttle and see what’s more expensive.

We stayed at HI-Reykjavik Downtown, which was new and clean and bright. Really bright. Our private room was outfitted with several gleaming pots of recessed lighting, which is probably great in the deep winter when the sun doesn’t rise until 11 am, but a little jarring when you’re trying to get ready to sleep. That being said, it’s a small detail and I really liked the hostel. I was particularly impressed by the sparkling clean and spacious bathroom. One thing they don’t make too clear is that you need to rent sheets and towels, so if you have the space, you might want to bring your own.

A few last things: Don’t worry about only speaking English. As the girl at the front desk of the hostel put it, only about 300 000 people speak Icelandic. No one expects you to.

Stock up on skyr (Icelandic yogurt) for your hostel breakfasts. It’s delicious, you can’t really get it anywhere else, and it’s probably the healthiest thing you’ll eat your whole trip. Fresh fruit and vegetables, due to being imported for the most part, are unfortunately expensive, and when I was there, unappealing. But skyr will make up for it.

Don’t miss riding an Icelandic horse. Unique to the country, they are pony-sized and gentle. I will stand by this even though one tossed my husband onto his (helmeted) head. There are daily tours offered by the hostel. Important tip #1- Wear the gear offered by the ranch! I disdained the orange suits and rain boots and ended up wet-footed and horse-hairy.

You must visit the Blue Lagoon. It’s luxurious and spa-like, even if you don’t pony up for the in-water massages. Soaking outside in clouds of steam in 38 degree water while the air temperature is at zero is a wonderful experience. We could have stayed all day if we didn’t have a plane to catch. (Due to being on the way to Keflavik Airport, stopping on the way is popular. We actually met 2 couples at 2 different spots in the Seattle airport who recognized us from the Blue Lagoon earlier that day.) Important tip #2! If you’re driving to the Blue Lagoon, signage is sparse. Keep your eyes out for a sign pointing to Blaa Lonio, the Icelandic name, and be ready to turn.

Being a total foodie, I wrote up my Icelandic dining experiences on my blog, fizzeats.com. If you’re interested, you can read about skyr and more there.

Photos from www.flickr.com/photos/jazzlawyer